![]() ![]() As a stay-at-home wife and mother, she raised the kids, maintained a home and made art (dried gourds became a medium). The Salina, Kansas native worked the family farm growing up, gaining an appreciation for fresh-natural-local even though things often got overcooked by her elders. Chef-owner Kesa Kenny sticks with quality ingredients and keep things simple to create five-star comfort food. This article was printed in the January/February 2018 edition of Omaha Magazine.Originally appeared in April 2018 issue of The Reader (Finicky Frank’s stands apart from North Omaha restaurants with its farm-to-table commitment and casual-meets-fine dining balance. A small salad included with the special featured mixed greens-no sad iceberg lettuce here-tossed with mozzarella balls, yellow bell pepper, crispy croutons, and cherry tomatoes, all perfectly dressed with housemade herb vinaigrette. The dish was quite good, but without a vegetable, the entree felt incomplete. A side of wild rice satisfied with its nutty, earthy flavor and pleasingly chewy texture. The special that evening was chicken roulade stuffed with ham and cheese, served with a rich, luscious artichoke cream sauce. The rings seemed slightly undersalted, but that’s far better than the opposite. ![]() They’re fried until golden brown and served with a dipping sauce made from stoneground mustard, mayo, and honey. Onion rings get a soak in buttermilk to make them tender before being coated in a batter of flour, egg, and salt. Sauerkraut brings brightness and tang, balanced by a pleasant sweetness from the housemade Thousand Island dressing. Two slices of marble rye hold a heap of lean, thinly sliced corned beef and melted Swiss cheese. A pair of crab cakes off the appetizer list pleased with their plumpness, plentiful lumps of crab meat, crispy exterior, and tender center.Īnother popular menu item is the Reuben sandwich. On a recent visit with a dining companion, we sampled several dishes and found the food just as comforting as the ambiance. Though just one page, the menu features a craveable lineup of salads, sandwiches, soups, and daily specials. During growing season, an abundance of garden goodies-everything from radishes to bok choy-winds up at the restaurant. That could mean seasonal produce from the nearby Florence Mill Farmers Market or vegetables grown on her land, which is cared for by a husband-and-wife gardening team. She sticks to a “keep it fresh, never frozen” philosophy and uses local ingredients whenever possible. “I’m always thinking, ‘What can I make next?’ I love to try everything,” Kesa says. Though not a trained chef, she’s an enthusiastic, self-taught home cook who enjoys experimenting with new recipes and putting her own spin on dishes. Inside, the space is warm and inviting with a classic black-and-white checkered floor, artwork, a spacious bar, and a charming “European flair,” says Kesa, who previously ran the former Center Street Cafe near 35th and Center streets, which closed in 2002. The restaurant rises above its nondescript, next-to-a-gas-station setting with a welcoming patio entrance surrounded by decorative wrought-iron fencing and lots of flowers and plants. Don’t do that.” “Frank is very particular, very finicky,” Kesa says.ĭuring the last 10 years, the family-friendly spot has acquired many loyal customers from the surrounding area as well as other parts of the city. His usual response: “Oh, God, don’t make that. ![]() The eatery is named after a neighbor who always turned his nose up at whatever Kesa was cooking. The following year, the restaurant moved to its present location at 9520 Calhoun Road, just northwest of North 30th Street and Interstate 680. The Kennys opened the first incarnation of Finicky Frank's in 2007 in Ponca Hills. Dishes are prepared from scratch with a focus on seasonality, and many ingredients are locally sourced some come from as close as owners Brian and Kesa Kenny’s 11-acre Ponca Hills home. ![]() The small, locally owned cafe in Omaha’s Florence neighborhood has a hidden-gem quality and offers well-made, thoughtful fare with homespun style. Its offbeat location next to a gas station may make some first-time visitors to Finicky Frank's a little apprehensive, but diners shouldn’t be dissuaded. ![]()
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